- Rake and thin your leaf layer so it’s less than an inch deep
- When the leaves are dry, run the mower over them. It might take a couple passes from different angles to break them into small particles that rapidly decompose
- Alternatively, you can rent or purchase a vacuum shredder that pulverizes leaves into a fine mulch. DIY Tip: Pile dry leaves in a big garbage can and plunge your weed trimmer in the center. The resulting “blender” will thrash them to dust.
You can also spread leaf mulch over planting beds and till them into the soil. Still too many leaves? Rake or blow them into neighboring woods or forest-style gardens on your property. The leaf litter will be consumed by microorganisms and provide nutrients for trees and other plants. It also creates habitats for beneficial creatures like fireflies, spiders, slugs, toads, and some small mammals.
3. Dethatch and aerate
Thatch is a thick layer of dead plant material that builds up at the base of your grass. If left intact, it prevents water and air from penetrating the soil and reaching the roots. Over time, the grass fades, shrivels and dies. When moisture pools on top of thatch, it becomes a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes. Areas that have been damaged by thatch are very hard to revive. That’s why it’s important to dethatch your lawn every fall. You can rent a dethatching machine at a big-box hardware store or equipment-rental shop. After dethatching, rent a plug aerator and create pathways for water and nutrients to reach the grass roots.
4. Fertilize
Fertilizer that is formulated for wintering helps grass absorb and store the nutrients it needs for lush growth in the spring. Using the results of your soil test, select fertilizers that deliver the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium for your lawn.
5. Repair and seed bare spots
Clear away any dead growth and “bulk up” your seed by blending one part seed with four parts fertilizer. Distribute it on the bare areas, and lightly roll to ensure good contact with the soil. Water just enough to moisten. Be sure to use the recommended seed mix for your lawn. See Lawn Categories and Seed Mixes at the University of Minnesota Extension for more information.
6. Bundle up your trees and shrubs
Minnesota winters can be harsh on plants. Protect young trees and shrubs by wrapping them in burlap. If you’re nurturing a new strawberry patch or other cold-sensitive plants, bed them down with a protective layer of straw and leaf debris.
7. Prune
Fall is a great time to go after the dead branches and sucker growth on trees and bushes. Not only does this improve the plant’s shape and appearance, it encourages new growth, flowering, and fruiting.
8. Do one last watering
Before the frost hardens the earth, water your lawn one more time. This helps move fertilizer down to the roots, and provide the moisture needed for spring growth. Then it’s time to turn off the valves supplying external faucets, drain the pipes, and stow the hose inside. If you have a lawn irrigation system, save some time and play it safe by contracting a professional service to clear the lines, and shut off the water.
9. Final inspection
Comb your yard from end to end and be on the lookout for hammers in the hedges, Barbies in the bushes, and other stray tools and toys. You’ll be surprised at what turns up—especially if you have small children.
Learn how to make the grass greener at the U of M
For more information on lawn care, and planting and growing guides for everything on your property, check out the Yard and Garden pages at the University of Minnesota Extension website.